Know before you go
Every drive down the Riviera has the same turning point: the Llogara Pass. The road climbs through the pines of Llogara National Park, crests at just over a thousand metres — and suddenly the entire coastline is below you, Palasë and Dhërmi like white ribbons against the blue.
Don't treat it as just a viewpoint. The pass has hiking trails through black pine forest, paragliding launches that land on the beach at Palasë, mountain air that's ten degrees cooler than the coast, and a strip of famous restaurants where roast lamb is practically mandatory.