Know before you go
Qeparo is two places. By the water: a long, easy-going pebble beach with tavernas and rooms that stays relaxed even at peak season. On the hill: Qeparo i Sipërm, the upper village — a half-abandoned, half-revived maze of stone houses, fig trees and silence, with terrace views over the whole bay.
Add Porto Palermo's island fortress five minutes south and you have one of the richest single stops on the Riviera.