Worth the detour
Beside the ruins of Butrint stretches a lagoon connected to the sea by the Vivari Channel — and strung across its waters are the mussel farms that supply the best tables of Ksamil and Sarandë. Butrint mussels have been cultivated here for decades; the lagoon's mix of fresh and salt water gives them a sweetness locals will defend at length.
The classic preparation is the simplest: steamed open in white wine with garlic, parsley and lemon, mopped up with bread. You'll also meet them fried, in rice, and in saganaki-style tomato and cheese — but order the classic first, ideally at a Ksamil table with the water in view, and you'll understand why the dish never left the neighbourhood.