Know before you go
Ksamil is the image that put Albania on the travel map: white sand, shallow water in shades of blue that look edited (they aren't), and four small islands close enough to swim to. In July and August it's the busiest place on the coast — arrive early, or come in June and September when it's simply perfect.
Its trump card is the neighbourhood: Butrint National Park, a 2,500-year-old UNESCO city wrapped in lagoon and forest, is ten minutes down the road, and the mussels farmed in that lagoon end up on every good table in town.