Know before you go
Between Borsh and Sarandë the road climbs inland and the coast goes quiet. Lukovë village watches from its hillside; below it, beaches like Bunec — a double cove split by a small headland, with a river meeting the sea — stay uncrowded all summer.
Further south, Krorëz (Kakome) bay has no road at all: fine pale pebbles, water that fades from glass to deep blue, reached by boat from Sarandë. This is the stretch for travellers who think the Riviera peaked before the crowds arrived.