Know before you go
If the Riviera has a capital of summer, it's Dhërmi. The long pebble beach is lined with bars and clubs, international music festivals take over in June and September, and the crowd is young, tanned and out late. Above it all, the old village of Dhërmi climbs the hillside in white stone, full of churches and alleyways.
Around the northern headland, Drymades is the gentler sibling — same turquoise water, fewer decibels, more families and long lunches.