Worth the detour
Between the named beaches, this coast hides coves with no roads, no names on most maps, and water that makes the famous spots look busy. The way in is Himarë's harbour: every summer morning, boats head north towards Gjipe, Aquarium Bay's deep-blue pool and the Filikuri sea caves, anchoring for swims where the only way to arrive is by sea.
Options range from shared group tours to private speedboat hire by the hour, and most skippers will shape the route to the day — calmer water north or south, longer at the cove you fall for. Book at the harbour kiosks the evening before for morning departures.
Hidden covesSea cavesSwimmingHalf-day