Worth the detour
Livadhi's tavernas are the reason 'a quick lunch' doesn't exist on this beach. Set right on the pebbles along the bay, they work to a simple formula perfected over generations: the morning's fish on the grill, mussels steamed in white wine and garlic, village salad under good local olive oil, cold Korça beer — and the afternoon dissolving pleasantly somewhere between courses.
Most pair with the sunbeds in front of them, so the commute from swim to table is barefoot and brief. Ask what's fresh rather than ordering from memory, accept the raki that arrives with the bill, and plan nothing ambitious afterwards.