Why it's worth your time
High above the modern seafront, the old town of Himarë — the Kastro — sits inside fortification walls that have been rebuilt and repaired since antiquity. Unlike most castles, this one is still a neighbourhood: stone houses in various states of ruin and revival, tiny churches, fig trees pushing through doorways, and locals who never left.
Come in the last two hours of daylight. The lanes are cool, the light turns the stone gold, and from the western walls you can trace the coast from Livadhi all the way south past Porto Palermo.