Why it's worth your time
In a sheltered bay just south of Himarë, a low triangular fortress sits on a knuckle of land barely attached to the shore. Porto Palermo Castle is linked to Ali Pasha of Tepelena, the powerful early-19th-century ruler of this coast, and it remains remarkably intact: cool, dark vaulted chambers inside, and a flat roof with views over the entire bay.
The bay itself did Cold-War service as a secret submarine base — the tunnel bored into the far headland is still visible from the castle roof. Bring swimwear: the pebble cove beside the causeway has clear, calm water and makes the perfect post-fortress cooldown.