Upper Qeparo (Qeparo i Sipërm)

The winding road up from Qeparo beach ends in a different century. Qeparo i Sipërm — Upper Qeparo — is a maze of stone houses, arched doorways and lanes barely wide enough for two people, draped over the hillside with the Ionian filling every gap between buildings.

Emigration emptied much of it; slow revival is filling it back in, with restored houses becoming guesthouses and a café-terrace or two opening onto that immense view. It remains the quietest beautiful place on the Riviera — go gently, and give it the unhurried hour it deserves.