White stone houses, tiny churches and alley shade above the Riviera's busiest beach — the older, quieter Dhërmi most visitors never climb to.
Stone village
Free
1–2 hours
Dhërmi
Most people experience Dhërmi entirely at sea level. The original village is up the slope: a cluster of white and grey stone houses stacked along narrow lanes, with churches tucked between them — Dhërmi and its surroundings are said to hold dozens of them — and views that take in the whole bay.
Half of it crumbles, half of it is being lovingly restored into guesthouses, cafés and wine bars. Come up in the late afternoon when the heat fades, wander without a plan, and stay for the sunset that the beach crowd below watches from sea level while you watch it from the balcony row.
The village sits right on the SH8 above the beach road — park along the main road and walk in. From the beach it's a steep 20–30 minute climb on foot.
It's a living village, free to wander at any hour. Churches open irregularly; if you find one unlocked, dress and behave respectfully.
Golden hour, without question. Wear shoes with grip — the lanes are polished stone — and bring a camera for the bay views between the houses.
Spend the day on Dhërmi or Drymades, then climb for the sunset hour.
A handful of village terraces serve slow dinners with the bay lit up below — the best tables in Dhërmi aren't on the beach.
Drive ten minutes south and hike into Gjipe Canyon before the heat builds.
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