Worth the detour
Most people experience Dhërmi entirely at sea level. The original village is up the slope: a cluster of white and grey stone houses stacked along narrow lanes, with churches tucked between them — Dhërmi and its surroundings are said to hold dozens of them — and views that take in the whole bay.
Half of it crumbles, half of it is being lovingly restored into guesthouses, cafés and wine bars. Come up in the late afternoon when the heat fades, wander without a plan, and stay for the sunset that the beach crowd below watches from sea level while you watch it from the balcony row.
Old villageChurchesSunsetFree