Why it's worth your time
Byllis was the largest city of the Illyrian Bylliones tribe, founded in the 4th century BC on a hilltop near today's village of Hekal. Its position was its strength: the walls look down over the Vjosa, one of Europe's last wild rivers, and across to the mountains beyond.
Today you can walk among the remains of the theatre, the stadium, the stoa and the city walls, and the foundations of several early Christian basilicas. Their mosaic floors are often covered with protective sand. It is far quieter than Butrint or Apollonia, and the setting is the most dramatic of the three.